神之水滴『十一門徒 夕陽』釀酒師Raul Bobet力作 －Castell d' Encus Taleia 2020 (RP:93)

Vintage 2020 
Robert Parker: 93
Tim Atkin: 92
Hudin: 92

酒經月刊創辦人劉致新(劉校長)喝過Taleia後曾比喻爲名曲"The Sound of Silence", 彷彿能聽見寂靜的聲音！

Castell d'Encus位於西班牙加泰隆尼亞，比利牛斯山脈分區的Costers del Segre產區，Raul Bobet曾在大名鼎鼎的Torres酒莊擔任主釀酒師，釀酒期間受到啓發，期望可以不受全球温室效應影响下繼續釀出心中最完美的酒。其後Raul Bobet於海拔1,000米高的Talarn村開始他的釀酒大計，無意中發現酒莊旁修道院竟然仍保留了僧侶曾在這裡釀酒的痕跡，包括多個12世紀時以人手開鑿的石窖，自然而然便還原古法釀造方法，起初只用少量葡萄作試驗，後來大部分葡萄也用這石窖發酵，然後再到不銹鋼桶或橡木桶陳年。這數十年來能釀出令飲家驚嘆的葡萄酒全因Raul的不斷努力和精益求精，他年青時是工程學科出身的的，所以他亦設計了可再生能源(地熱能發電)推動整個酒莊的電力，非常環保。另外Raul 喜愛哲學和冥想，他的產品皆以梵文或以葡萄生長的地方命名。他的理念很簡單 :

"我們希望釀造出風格非常清晰的葡萄酒，以保持新鮮度為支柱，避免過度成熟和過度萃取。 我們追求優雅和微妙，但又不放棄葡萄酒的複雜性和圓潤感。 毫無疑問，從這個意義上說，葡萄發揮主要作用。"

他的理念看似簡單，但實際操作上卻需要在葡萄種植和釀造過程等細節上花上無比的心思和管理能力，幕後亦有著熟練的團隊協助，才可以在不可預料的天氣下仍能釀出喝一口便令人感動的酒。

Castell d'Encus 毫無疑問是近來世界舞台上最令人振奮的西班牙酒莊。而Raul Bobet亦是有份負責Ferrer Bobet酒莊的人，在那裡他與葡萄酒發燒友Sergi Ferrer-Salat合作，展現出另一高山Priorat酒的獨特風味。

此酒因為沒有經過淨化，所以會出現沉澱物。而因為沒有二氧化硫，所以應保存在清涼地方避免不必要演化。酒內酸度令此酒比一般自然葡萄有更強陳年能力，只需把酒保存於適當的條件和溫度下。

產地：
西班牙-加泰羅尼亞

種類：
白葡萄酒

酒精度：
12.65%

葡萄品種：
Sauvignon Blanc、Semillon

釀造：
野生酵母發酵，一部份在新橡木桶中發酵，其餘部份在細不鏽鋼缸和石窖中浸渣陳年6個月。

品酒筆記：
(Robert Parker's rating: 93 points)
2020年是涼爽的一年，這使得酒莊能夠釀造出所想的風格，就像2020年的Taleia，比2019 年的酒精度更低，酸度更高，而2019 年是一個溫暖的年份。2020年的Taleia非常年輕、乾淨、微妙，有點害羞，但它純淨和專注，口感鮮明，餘韻極不甜(Bone Dry)。靈感來自Sancerre的白酒；這款主要採用Sauvignon Blanc和2003年種植的Semillon釀製而成。酒精含量為12.65%，pH值為 3.0，酸度為 6.5 克。用本土酵母發酵，一部分在新橡木桶中發酵，其餘在細不銹鋼缸和石窖中，浸渣陳年約六個月。2021年11月，共裝了9,700瓶和 100瓶大樽(1.5升)。

Raul Bobet’s groundbreaking wines from the Pyrenees subzone of the Costers del Segre appellation, are produced in the village of Talarn at 1,000 metres altitude. The wines are named with Sanskrit words or after the places where grapes are grown, Taleia means obsession in Catalan. Nowadays most of the wines are fermented in the 12th century stone lagars from the property. It has to be seen to be believed. However, the process is not the most important thing, what is really important is that the results are superb. These are some of the most exciting new wines throughout Spain. And Bobet, the ex-Torres enquiring mind, is also responsible for the breathtaking Priorats from the Ferrer-Bobet winery, his joint venture with entrepreneur and wine lover Sergi Ferrer-Salat.

Country of Origin:
Spain / Catalonia

Type:
White/Blanc (Still)

Grape Varieties:
Sauvignon Blanc、Semillon

ABV:
12.65%

Vinification
Fermented with indigenous yeasts, part in new oak barrels and the rest in small stainless steel vats and stone pools, where it matured with the lees for some six months.

Tasting Notes:
(Robert Parker's rating: 93 points)
2020 was a cooler year that allowed them to produce wines in the style they want to do, like the 2020 Taleia, which has lower alcohol and more acidity than the 2019, a warmer vintage that I tasted next to this. It's very young, clean, subtle and a little shy but with crystalline purity and focus, a sharp mouthfeel and a bone-dry finish. The inspiration here is the whites from Sancerre; this is made with a majority of Sauvignon Blanc with some Semillon from vines planted in 2003, but the character of the Sauvignon Blanc is quite subtle. It has 12.65% alcohol and a pH of 3.0 with 6.5 grams of acidity. It fermented with indigenous yeasts, part in new oak barrels and the rest in small stainless steel vats and stone pools, where it matured with the lees for some six months. 9,700 bottles and 100 magnums were filled in November 2021.

Music to go with:

Erik Satie - Gymnopédie No. 1