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Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is one of the most famous producers in Burgundy dates back to 1450 when Jean Moisson constructed the original building. The property stayed in the same family, passing through the female line from time to time until a Catherine Bouhier married Cerice-Melchior de Vogüé in 1766. Somehow the family, though in exile in England, managed to retain control of the domaine during the French revolution. Modern history and the current label begin with Comte Georges de Vogüé who took over in 1925. The first heyday of the domaine came during the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s. The domaine owns 7.25 hectares of the fabled Le Musigny vineyard which constitutes 80% of the whole site. In addition, it has 2.75 hectares of Bonnes-Mares and 1.8 hectares of Premier Cru Chambolle-Musigny.
Under the aegis of estate manager Jean-Luc Pepin, with winemaker François Millet and the aptly named Eric Bourgogne in the vineyards, this domaine currently cannot put a foot wrong; it ranks amongst the very best Burgundy houses. Tastings at de Vogüé have become a perverse highlight of any buying trip - nobody is allowed to taste unless François is present. In his exemplary measured English François will distill the essence of each vintage in a mixture of metaphysical and anthropomorphic metaphors.
AOC Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, Bourgogne
Country of Origin:
(2008) A more deeply pitched nose of cool and reserved red and black cherry aromas that are quite fresh and pure and are laced more with warm earth than stone though both are present. The focused and detailed broad-shouldered flavors are blessed with ample dry extract that cuts a bit of the austerity on the linear, serious, mouthcoating and hugely long finish. As is often the case, this is still quite primary and will need plenty of time to unwind.
(2009) This is very deeply colored. A notably riper nose of kirsch, spice and earth plus an herbal hint that is also picked up by the powerful and tautly muscled broad-shouldered flavors that possess buckets of extract that buffer the very firm tannins that impart a dusty texture on the superbly long finish. This intensely floral effort is presently quite austere but it has everything that it needs to be great in time. In a word, sensational.