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神之水滴『十一門徒 夕陽』釀酒師Raul Bobet力作 - Castell d' Encus Acusp 2014 (RP:93) / 2015 / 2017 (RP:92+)



Castell d'Encus於西班牙加泰隆尼亞,比利牛斯山脈分區的Costers del Segre產區,Raul Bobet曾在大名鼎鼎的Torres酒莊擔任主釀酒師,釀酒期間受到啓發,期望可以不受全球温室效應影响下繼續釀出心中最完美的酒其後Raul Bobet於海拔1,000米高的Talarn村開始他的釀酒大計,無意中發現酒莊旁修道院竟然仍保留了僧侶曾在這裡釀酒的痕跡,包括多個12世紀時以人手開鑿的石窖,自然而然便還原古法釀造方法,起初只用少量葡萄作試驗,後來大部分葡萄也用這石窖發酵,然後再到不銹鋼桶或橡木桶陳年

這數十年來能釀出令飲家驚嘆的葡萄酒全因Raul的不斷努力和精益求精,他年青時是工程學科出身的的,所以他亦設計了可再生能源(地熱能發電)推動整個酒莊的電力,非常環保。另外Raul 喜愛哲學和冥想,他的產品皆以梵文或以葡萄生長的地方命名。他的理念很簡單 :

"我們希望釀造出風格非常清晰的葡萄酒,以保持新鮮度為支柱,避免過度成熟和過度萃取。 我們追求優雅和微妙,但又不放棄葡萄酒的複雜性和圓潤感。 毫無疑問,從這個意義上說,葡萄發揮主要作用。"


Castell d'Encus 毫無疑問是近來世界舞台上最令人振奮的西班牙酒莊。而Raul Bobet亦是有份負責Ferrer Bobet酒莊的人,在那裡他與葡萄酒發燒友Sergi Ferrer-Salat合作,展現出另一高山Priorat酒的獨特風味。




Pinot Noir



(Robert Parker's rating: 93 points)
2012年Acusp是在石窖和橡木桶中發酵的純Pinot Noir,在木桶陳年一年。 讓人想起了Charme,杜羅河Niepoort產區最優雅的餐酒…帶有微甜的蜜餞櫻桃、香草、煙熏和香蕉皮。口感清新、平衡,果香持久,口感絲滑,口味純淨,優雅和諧。

(Robert Parker's rating: 93 points)
2013 年Acusp是用西班牙Pinot Noir釀造的最好的葡萄酒之一,它的葡萄藤是在2003年於寒冷地區海拔1,000 米處種植的,來自非常寒冷的年份,部分在古老的石窖中發酵。經過蘋果酸乳酸發酵,並在新的法國橡木桶中陳年11個月。儘管如此,它仍然給人一種完全成熟的感覺,帶有一些忌廉味以及野生莓果和香料的香氣…質地柔滑,單寧細膩,酸度良好,味道非常原始,精確而乾淨,比Costers del Segre出產的更具Pinot Noir風味。非常怡人的Pinot Noir,適合在瓶中陳年。出產11,800瓶。

(Robert Parker's rating: 93 points)
精緻的Pinot Noir 2014 Acusp以莊園內一座海拔較高的山丘命名。葡萄藤於2003年在海拔約1,000米的地方,以每公頃約9,000株的密度種植。部分在12 世紀的石窖中發酵,其餘部分在不銹鋼缸中發酵,然後於新法國橡木桶中進行蘋果酸乳酸發酵及陳年11個月。2014 年也是一個涼爽的年份,與 2013 年沒有什麼不同,但在挑選後,丟棄了許多葡萄。香氣微妙,帶有酸櫻桃和一絲甜香料的香氣。介乎Morey St Denis和Central Otago之間,但這款酒經常讓人想起Niepoort Charme的魅力。呈現出甘苦與香甜參半的櫻桃味和一絲橡木味,並帶有一些忌廉味。具備酸度和新鮮度,餘韻很好,略帶甘苦。 2015年12月,裝瓶11,800瓶和200大瓶(1.5升)。


(Robert Parker's rating: 92+ points)
2017 年的Acusp採用2003年在海拔1,000米種植的Pinot Noir葡萄,用野生酵母發酵,分別在不銹鋼缸和古老的石窖中發酵。在用過的木桶中陳年了11個月,然後在大木桶(foudres)中陳年了3個月。最後在瓶中陳年不少於6個月才被釋放。帶有成熟櫻桃和一些香草的味道,酒體中等,單寧非常細膩,酸度良好,味道乾淨,餘韻不甜,帶有Pinot Noir特有的幼細單寧。2019年1月裝了10,700瓶和100大瓶(1.5升)。

Raul Bobet’s groundbreaking wines from the Pyrenees subzone of the Costers del Segre appellation, are produced in the village of Talarn at 1,000 meters altitude. The wines are named with Sanskrit words or after the places where grapes are grown. Nowadays most of the wines are fermented in the 12th century stone lagares from the property. It has to be seen to be believed. However, the process is not the most important thing, what is really important is that the results are superb. These are some of the most exciting new wines throughout Spain. And Bobet, the ex-Torres enquiring mind, is also responsible for the breathtaking Priorats from the Ferrer-Bobet winery, his joint venture with entrepreneur and wine lover Sergi Ferrer-Salat.

Country of Origin:
Spain / Catalonia

Red/Rouge (Still)

Grape Varieties:
Pinot Noir

Harvested by hand in small boxes of 10 kg, from our vineyards’ grapes planted exclusively in high density at the top of the mountain with and average altitude of 1000m. 100% of the wine has made its malolactic fermentation in barrel. 


Tasting Notes:
Vintage 2012
(Robert Parker's rating: 93 points)
The 2012 Acusp is pure Pinot Noir fermented in stone pools and oak vats, and aged in barrel for a year. It reminds me of an awkward phase that Charme, the most elegant table wine from Niepoort in Douro, goes through, with a slightly sweet nose of candied cherries, vanilla, smoke and banana skin. The palate has the freshness, balance and fruit to age for a long time, with a silky texture, great purity of flavors, and superb elegance and harmony.

Vintage 2013
(Robert Parker's rating: 93 points)

One of the best wines produced with the finicky Pinot Noir grape in Spain, the 2013 Acusp was sourced from vines planted in 2003 at 1,000 meters altitude in a cold region from a very cold vintage that was part fermented in the old stone pools. The wine went through malolactic and 11 months aging in new French oak barrels. Despite all that, it feels fully ripe with some creamy notes and aromas of wild berries and spices...The texture is silky, the tannins are ultra-polished and it has good acidity with quite primary flavors that are precise and clean, more Pinot Noir than Costers del Segre. A very pleasant Pinot that needs to develop more nuances in bottle. 11,800 bottles.

Vintage 2014
(Robert Parker's rating: 93 points)
The more delicate red wine is probably the Pinot Noir 2014 Acusp, which is named after a higher altitude hill within the estate where the Pinot Noir was planted at some 9,000 vines per hectare in 2003, and located at some 1,000 meters above sea level. Part of the wine fermented in the 12th century stone pools in the property and the rest in stainless steel, followed by malolactic in new French oak barrels where the wine matured for 11 months. 2014 was also a cool vintage, not unlike 2013, but with the need to sort and they had to discard many grapes. The nose is subtly perfumed, with aromas of sour cherries and a pinch of sweet spices, somewhere in between Morey St Denis and Central Otago, but this wine often reminds me of the Charme from Niepoort. The palate shows bittersweet flavors of cherries and a hint of oak, with some creaminess. There is good acidity and freshness, and the finish is nicely and subtly bitter. 11,800 bottles and 200 magnums were filled in December 2015.

Vintage 2015
Red fruit colour. On the nose, floral notes of flower vine and jasmine, and spicy red fruit such as strawberries and raspberries. On the palate, seductive entrance with good acidity and long finish. Decanting recommended.

Vintage 2017
(Robert Parker's rating: 92+ points)
From Pinot Noir grapes planted in 2003 at 1,000 meters in altitude, the 2017 Acusp fermented with indigenous yeasts, part in stainless steel and part in their ancient stone lagares. It matured in used barriques for 11 months, followed by three months in foudres and then was kept in bottle for no less than six months before it was released. It's a ripe varietal Pinot with notes of ripe cherries and some herbs. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and good acidity, clean flavors and a dry and serious finish, with Pinot Noir fine-grained tannins. 10,700 bottles and100 magnums were filled in January 2019.