神之水滴『十一門徒 夕陽』釀酒師Raul Bobet力作 －Castell d' Encus Taleia 2019 (RP:92) (JR:17+) (JS:92)

酒經月刊創辦人劉致新(劉校長)喝過Taleia後曾比喻爲名曲"The Sound of Silence", 彷彿能聽見寂靜的聲音！

Jancis Robinson Score: 17+/20

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon. Only the free-run must was used. 40% oak. A warmer vintage than 2018. Subzone: Pallars.
Somewhat more open compared with the 2019 vintage. Fresh, and a remarkable vegetal touch that makes the Sauvignon Blanc recognisable. Less extreme than other Castell d'Encús references, but still playing with underripeness. It reminds me of some extreme Sancerre like Pascal Cotat's. To buy now but drink after waiting 4 years. (Ferran Centelles 19 Jul 2021)

12% When to drink 2025-2040

Castell d'Encus位於西班牙加泰隆尼亞，比利牛斯山脈分區的Costers del Segre產區，Raul Bobet曾在大名鼎鼎的Torres酒莊擔任主釀酒師，釀酒期間受到啓發，期望可以不受全球温室效應影响下繼續釀出心中最完美的酒。其後Raul Bobet於海拔1,000米高的Talarn村開始他的釀酒大計，無意中發現酒莊旁修道院竟然仍保留了僧侶曾在這裡釀酒的痕跡，包括多個12世紀時以人手開鑿的石窖，自然而然便還原古法釀造方法，起初只用少量葡萄作試驗，後來大部分葡萄也用這石窖發酵，然後再到不銹鋼桶或橡木桶陳年。這數十年來能釀出令飲家驚嘆的葡萄酒全因Raul的不斷努力和精益求精，他年青時是工程學科出身的的，所以他亦設計了可再生能源(地熱能發電)推動整個酒莊的電力，非常環保。另外Raul 喜愛哲學和冥想，他的產品皆以梵文或以葡萄生長的地方命名。他的理念很簡單 :

"我們希望釀造出風格非常清晰的葡萄酒，以保持新鮮度為支柱，避免過度成熟和過度萃取。 我們追求優雅和微妙，但又不放棄葡萄酒的複雜性和圓潤感。 毫無疑問，從這個意義上說，葡萄發揮主要作用。"

他的理念看似簡單，但實際操作上卻需要在葡萄種植和釀造過程等細節上花上無比的心思和管理能力，幕後亦有著熟練的團隊協助，才可以在不可預料的天氣下仍能釀出喝一口便令人感動的酒。

Castell d'Encus 毫無疑問是近來世界舞台上最令人振奮的西班牙酒莊。而Raul Bobet亦是有份負責Ferrer Bobet酒莊的人，在那裡他與葡萄酒發燒友Sergi Ferrer-Salat合作，展現出另一高山Priorat酒的獨特風味。

此酒因為沒有經過淨化，所以會出現沉澱物。而因為沒有二氧化硫，所以應保存在清涼地方避免不必要演化。酒內酸度令此酒比一般自然葡萄有更強陳年能力，只需把酒保存於適當的條件和溫度下。

產地：
西班牙-加泰羅尼亞

種類：
白葡萄酒

葡萄品種：
85% Sauvignon Blanc、15% Semillon

釀造：
野生酵母發酵，50%在新橡木桶中陳年，其餘部份在細不鏽鋼缸和石窖中浸渣陳年6個月。

品酒筆記：
(Robert Parker's rating: 92 points)
2019 年的Taleia比 2020 年的酒精度更高，酸度更低。2019是一個較成熟、柔和的年份。口感柔軟絲滑，平衡而清新，風格純正優雅。有白花和醋栗的味道，收尾乾爽，味道乾淨、集中……這款酒完全沒有橡木味。2020年10月裝了150,000瓶和60瓶大瓶裝。

Raul Bobet’s groundbreaking wines from the Pyrenees subzone of the Costers del Segre appellation, are produced in the village of Talarn at 1,000 metres altitude. The wines are named with Sanskrit words or after the places where grapes are grown, Taleia means obsession in Catalan. Nowadays most of the wines are fermented in the 12th century stone lagars from the property. It has to be seen to be believed. However, the process is not the most important thing, what is really important is that the results are superb. These are some of the most exciting new wines throughout Spain. And Bobet, the ex-Torres enquiring mind, is also responsible for the breathtaking Priorats from the Ferrer-Bobet winery, his joint venture with entrepreneur and wine lover Sergi Ferrer-Salat.

Country of Origin:
Spain / Catalonia

Type:
White/Blanc (Still)

Grape Varieties:
85% Sauvignon Blanc、15% Semillon

Vinification
Fermented with indigenous yeasts, part in new oak barrels where it matured (50% of the volume) and the rest in small stainless steel vats and stone pools, where it matured with the lees for some six months. 

Tasting Notes:
(Robert Parker's rating: 92 points)
The 2019 Taleia has a little more alcohol and lower acidity than the 2020 I tasted next to it. This is a riper and softer vintage for this Sauvignon Blanc with a touch of Semillon. It has a soft and velvety mouthfeel, keeping the balance and freshness and the pure and elegant style. There are notes of white flowers and gooseberries, and it finishes dry and with clean, focused flavors...The wine shows no oak at all. 15,0000 bottles and 60 magnums were filled in October 2020.

Music to go with:

Erik Satie - Gymnopédie No. 1