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神之水滴『十一門徒 夕陽』釀酒師Raul Bobet力作 -Castell d'Encus Taleia Brisat 2018 (RP: 93) (Skin Contact Orange Wine)



Castell d'Encus於西班牙加泰隆尼亞,比利牛斯山脈分區的Costers del Segre產區,Raul Bobet曾在大名鼎鼎的Torres酒莊擔任主釀酒師,釀酒期間受到啓發,期望可以不受全球温室效應影响下繼續釀出心中最完美的酒其後Raul Bobet於海拔1,000米高的Talarn村開始他的釀酒大計,無意中發現酒莊旁修道院竟然仍保留了僧侶曾在這裡釀酒的痕跡,包括多個12世紀時以人手開鑿的石窖,自然而然便還原古法釀造方法,起初只用少量葡萄作試驗,後來大部分葡萄也用這石窖發酵,然後再到不銹鋼桶或橡木桶陳年

這數十年來能釀出令飲家驚嘆的葡萄酒全因Raul的不斷努力和精益求精,他年青時是工程學科出身的的,所以他亦設計了可再生能源(地熱能發電)推動整個酒莊的電力,非常環保。另外Raul 喜愛哲學和冥想,他的產品皆以梵文或以葡萄生長的地方命名。他的理念很簡單 :

"我們希望釀造出風格非常清晰的葡萄酒,以保持新鮮度為支柱,避免過度成熟和過度萃取。 我們追求優雅和微妙,但又不放棄葡萄酒的複雜性和圓潤感。 毫無疑問,從這個意義上說,葡萄發揮主要作用。"

Castell d'Encus 毫無疑問是近來世界舞台上最令人振奮的西班牙酒莊。而Raul Bobet亦是有份負責Ferrer Bobet酒莊的人,在那裡他與葡萄酒發燒友Sergi Ferrer-Salat合作,展現出另一高山Priorat酒的獨特風味。

Castell d'Encus 毫無疑問是近來世界舞台上最令人振奮的西班牙酒莊。而Raul Bobet亦是有份負責Ferrer Bobet酒莊的人,在那裡他與葡萄酒發燒友Sergi Ferrer-Salat合作,展現出另一高山Priorat酒的獨特風味。


西班牙-加泰羅尼亞 -  Costers Del Segre

Natural Skin Contact Orange Wine(天然橙酒)

100% Sauvignon Blanc

Taleia Brisat前身是2013-2016年的-(Minus)SO2,在高山石窖原生酵母發酵,無濾過,無添加SO2。2017年開始改變為Taleia Brisat,Brisat在加泰隆尼亞文解作"Skin Contact",用原串葡萄連皮發酵來增加風味,一如Orange Wine的製法。2017年採用Semillon和Sauvignon Blanc,同樣高地石窖原生酵母發酵,稱得上Semillon的無濾過巔峰之作;而2018年稀有地用100% Sauvignon Blanc,味道之複雜,亦絕對值得品味。


(Robert Parker's rating: 95 points)
釀造時葡萄皮(不連莖)經過非常輕力的的壓榨,以避免產生苦澀味。所以浸皮(skin contact)在香氣上影響不多,顏色亦淡。令人驚訝的是,它完全不加亞硫酸鹽,感覺乾淨而精確,沒有任何偏差。非常美味,單寧細緻,受白堊土的影響下而帶淡淡的礦物感。2019年7月裝瓶,限量4,500瓶。


Raul Bobet’s groundbreaking wines from the Pyrenees subzone of the Costers del Segre appellation, are produced in the village of Talarn at 1,000 metres altitude. The wines are named with Sanskrit words or after the places where grapes are grown. Nowadays most of the wines are fermented in the 12th century stone lagares from the property. It has to be seen to be believed. However, the process is not the most important thing, what is really important is that the results are superb. These are some of the most exciting new wines throughout Spain. And Bobet, the ex-Torres enquiring mind, is also responsible for the breathtaking Priorats from the Ferrer-Bobet winery, his joint venture with entrepreneur and wine lover Sergi Ferrer-Salat.

Country of Origin:
Spain / Catalonia /  Costers Del Segre

Natural Orange Wine

Grape Varieties:
Sauvignon Blanc

Taleia Brisat was formerly known as -(Minus)SO2 from 2013 to 2016.  It was fermented with native yeast in 12th century stone lagares, without filtration and zero SO2 was added.  It was changed to Taleia Brisat in 2017, Brisat is the Catalan word for "skin contact". The whole brunch of grapes are fermented with skins to increase the flavour, just like the method of making Orange Wine. In 2017, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc were used, which are also fermented with natural yeast in highland stone cups, that can be regarded as the peak of unfiltered Semillon.  The 2018 vintage used 100% Sauvignon Blanc, the taste is so delicate and complex, which is definitely worth trying.

Tasting Notes:
(Robert Parker's rating: 95 points)
The punching down of the grapes (without stems) with the skins was ultra light to avoid extracting bitter notes.  So the skin effect on the nose and even the color is quite light. Amazingly enough, there are no added sulfites here, and the wine is clean and precise, with no deviations whatsoever. This is very tasty and has very fine tannins and a subtle minerality that is a chalky texture. 4,500 bottles were filled in July 2019.

On the view – Golden straw.
On the nose – Contrast between sorb tree fruits and ripeness, with fine pastry notes and light notes of chamomile.
In the mouth – Silky palate with hints of apricot compote. Long with good freshness and acidity.  After taste is long, fruity and complex.
Comments – This wine can develop sediments, because of the lack of clarification. Thanks to its acidity it will have a better aging than the average of natural wines, as long as it is stored under suitable conditions.